Destination Guide

History of Phu Quoc

Posted on 14/04/202011/10/2024 by Sai Gon Web Co., Ltd

14
Apr

A Guide To The History Phu Quoc Island

Phu Quoc was first part of the Funan empire, then Chenia and eventually Khmer, which is probably why it was first the homeland of the Khmer people, who also occupied the Mekong Delta, before anybody else. At that time, the now referred to as Peal Island or Phu Quoc was known as Koh Tral, which changed into Phu Quoc with the arrival of the Vietnamese in 1600; however, it took them 20 more years before they were allowed to settle. Nevertheless, even after a century, Phu Quoc was still a desolated region where Khmer, Chinese, and Vietnamese lived together.

The Tay Son Rebellion (1600s-early 1800s)

The House of Nguyen was the last imperial family in Vietnam and a family clan with substantial military power and political influence, as well as the lordship of the southern part of central Vietnam, in the 17^th century. It was believed to have been one of the most affluent clans of Vietnam for a really long time while there are mentions about King Gia Long, the founder of the Dynasty, spending his days after big battles in Phu Quo, indulging in spa-like treatments; a luxury only a handful had back then. But, the Nguyens seem to have always been at war with the Trinh family, leading the country to several civil wars. Unable to unite the country under one ruler, the 17^th century war ended in an uneasy peace that lasted 100 years until a rebellion sparked by the Tay Son heated things up again in 1774. After losing considerable manpower during a series of campaigns in Cambodia, the Nguyen clan could not maintain control, especially after the Trinh lords shook hands with the Tay Son rebels in 1775, and were eventually overthrown. The Nguyen lord, 13-year-old Nguyen Anh, fled south and managed to escape Tay Son’s capture with the help of a Vietnamese Catholic priest and a French missionary, ending in the Tho Chu Islands in the Thailand Gulf. Between 1782 and 1786, Phu Quoc was the retreat Anh would turn to as the fights between the Nguyen and the Tay Son about Vietnam continued, until the early 1800s, when Anh finally defeated the Tay Son clan.

The France-Cambodia Treaty

In 1853, Cambodia’s king made a move to build relationships with France as a means to protect his kingdom against the Vietnamese and Siamese. So, he sent a letter to Napoleon III, which was never answered. The King made a second attempt to lure the French emperor by offering him Phu Quoc but was once more ignored. A third communication was initiated some years later when the King informed the French emperor of Cambodia’s claims on Phu Quoc and the lower Cochinchina region, asking the French not to annex any areas of these territories as, he claimed, had remained Cambodian despite the long Vietnamese occupation. A treaty between the two countries came a decade later, in 1863, when France annexed the region consisting of Ho Chi Minh City, the Mekong Delta, and Phu Quoc, and turned it into a French protectorate that was also referred to as Cochinchina.

Phu Quoc as a French Protectorate

The Vietnamese authorities in Phu Quoc pledged loyalty and commitment to the French troops that had annihilated Ha Tien already, in 1867. Two years later, they (the French) occupied the island and set up coconut and rubber plantations throughout Phu Quoc. At the same time, they requested for Chinese pepper farmers from the Hainan province to be brought here. The French Protectorate placed Phu Quoc under the administration of France (through the administration of the Cochinchina Governor) in 1874, and under the inspection of the France-colonised Ha Tien district in 1875. Some years later, Cambodia, with help from the French, regained the northern provinces of Siam and was awarded the Vietnamese claim on Phu Quoc and the Mekong Delta. Phu Quoc remained under Cochinchina administration, though, when General and Governor of French Indochina placed the islands north of the Gulf of Thailand under the Cambodian protectorate, leaving the southern ones to be managed by the Cochinchina. However, this distinction was not addressing sovereignty rather than administrative and police tasks. Finally, Phu Quoc and the remaining areas of the Cochinchina territory were attached to Vietnam in 1949 with a French ruling, which also included some rights of the Khmer people that were living on the island and any Vietnamese territory.

The Coconut Prison

The island of Phu Quoc houses one of the largest prisoner camps during the Vietnam War built by the French colonialists to incarcerate Vietnamese people. Known as Coconut Tree Prison, it was rebuilt in 1967 into a prison for communist soldiers. In several periods, it held nearly 40,000 prisoners, both communist soldier and political prisoners alike. With a guard-prisoner ratio of 1-2, Coconut prison was one of the strictest ones with profound guard force that remained in history as the place were extremely brutal crimes took place. Phu Quoc war prisoners suffered tortures and punishments that are hard to imagine could ever be generated from a human mind while thousands died in jail due to exhaustion, food deprivation, and after undergoing barbaric torments day after day, month after month. In the end, though, some of them managed to endure the suffering and not only divide the enemy ranks but also find ways to escape by digging tunnels and more. In the meantime, Phu Quoc also suffered incursions and counter-incursions when the Khmer Krom (Phu Quoc included) was the object of desire for both the Khmer Rouge (Red Cambodians) and Vietnam. In the 1970s, the first seized power in Cambodia and went on a mission to reclaim Phu Quoc and the Mekong Delta; one of these raids ended in the massacre of 500 Vietnamese civilians. All this fighting escalated the Cambodia-Vietnamese War. In 1993, Phu Quoc prison was declared a historical monument and now serves as a war museum, occupying the main area of the former jail, and displaying original artifacts and other exhibits, including life-sized wax mannequins reproducing some of the agonizing moments and suffering prisoners lived back then. Every year, Coconut Prison welcomes former prisoners, locals from all over the country, and tourists alike to its premises, showing them a piece of Vietnam’s history that will never be forgotten. Even today, Cambodia still claims Phu Quoc, Ho Chi Minh City, and the Mekong Delta.

Phu Quoc Today

After leaving behind the wars and killings of the past, Phu Quoc has started to unveil its real beauty, unrolling its true potential as a tourist destination. With much natural beauty distinguished by lush jungles, pristine beaches, and imposing mountains, Phu Quoc is beginning to enter the game of hospitality, with some areas hosting luxury resorts. Tourism is becoming a source of income for an increasing number of residents, and Phu Quoc has its topographically varied, green land to thank for. Heart-stopping forested mountains, lowland, tropic evergreen forests, and flourishing river plains give way to sugary beaches and secluded coves, enticing all those that come or live here with the changing landscape. Even the underwater world allures with the great quality coral reefs in the northern and southern part of the island. Without losing its originality and authenticity, Phu Quoc is gradually moving towards modernisation and development. Considering that for a significant part of its history Phu Quoc was primarily dominated by the military due to the political imbalance and sensitivity concerning the rights of the island, it feels that Phu Quoc is now reclaiming what it lost and what it was deprived of all these years. Until all the development planned takes place and transforms the area, we will have lots of overwhelming charm and appeal in forests turned into national parks, rainforest areas being well-protected under national conservation laws, tens of fish sauce-producing factories, a large number of top quality pepper farms, and so many more.

Interesting Facts About today’s Phu Quoc:

The island grows coconut, durian, jack-fruit, banana, rambutan, and mango.
It has a high-quality black pepper that it exports to the corners of the world (more than 400 tons every year).
The total area of pepper cultivation reaches 500 hectares, with each hectare having between 2,500-3,000 strings, which produce about 3,000kg of peppers per hectare.
It has about 100 fish sauce factories producing the best fish sauce repeatedly thanks to its rich anchovy catches from which the sauce is made (10 million litres of sauce annually).
Fish sauce was an idea of fishermen some hundreds of years ago, when there were no fridges or ice to preserve the fish they could not consume. Mixing fish with salt (to prolong fish life) turned into a sauce with a strong flavour after a period of time (around a year) from the fermented fish.
Phu Quoc’s popularity as a tourist destination for luxury travellers and adventure seekers is growing by the day, which is why one can find a broad spectrum of accommodation, from high-end hotels to hostels.

In a Nutshell

What appears to describe Phu Quoc’s history is a struggle to stand on its feet and stay alive from more aspects than one. Lacking the fertile soils of the Mekong Delta and experiencing relatively dry weather, you won’t find rice raddles on the island. Plus, given that Phu Quoc has served as a place of exile and refuge for a wide range of people, from revolutionaries and rebels to warlords for many centuries, it is no wonder that it has remained relatively underdeveloped. That aside, Pearl Island sits right on top of the border that separates Chinese and Indian-influenced Asia; one of the country’s cultural fault lines. This means that Phu Quoc has clashing work ethics, cuisines, religions, and cultures that are battling to prevail over its people, who, for hundreds of years, were Vietnamese. For those looking for luxurious accommodation on Phu Quoc Island look no further than La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc. This 5 star boutique resort on Phu Quoc offers a variety of room types, including garden-view rooms, sea-view rooms, and suites. The resort also boasts several restaurants serving local and internatioal cuisine,and one of the most luxurious spas in all of Phu Quoc Vietnam.

Find Out More

Local Guide in Phu Quoc

Enjoy the green season! While the dry season of December to April offers the most ideal weather and sunny skies, many savvy travelers take advantage of the “green season”, dodging the brief showers and occasional storms with indoor activities like cooking classes and a soothing massage in exchange for steeply discounted accommodations. The rainy season also brings out the best in many of the island’s natural spots, including the Tranh Stream (“Suối Tranh”, pronounced “soo-ey tranh”) with rapids and several waterfalls where visitors can swim which makes for a great Phu Quoc day trip. Explore the island DIY If organized tours aren’t your thing, there are many places to visit on Phu Quoc which can be done on your own. Adventurous travelers can rent a scooter and explore the many beautiful beaches in Phu Quoc. Be aware that while scooter rentals are cheap at roughly USD 8 per day, technically you do need an International Driving Permit and if you get stopped by the police, expect to pay a hefty fine. On the plus side, most of the main roads around Phu Quoc are paved and without too much traffic, making driving quite easy for even the novice. Note that roads towards the north of the island and through the national park are mostly unpaved dirt roads which require some skill to navigate the sandy areas. Otherwise, taxis can be hired for half-day or full-day Phu Quoc island tours, usually either to the south or the north of the island. Negotiate with your driver exactly where you want to visit and the price beforehand. Otherwise, many of the organized Phu Quoc island tours are based on volume, which means if you don’t mind being on a boat with 30-40 other people, the costs are quite reasonable at around USD 20 for a full-day boat trip with lunch and snorkeling. Alternatively, many of the high-end resorts can put together an unforgettable Robinson Crusoe-like day with a picnic lunch on a deserted island beach all to yourself. Boats can also be hired out to visit the islands that make up the An Thoi archipelago in the south or the more sheltered islands in the northwest known for their shallow water and good macrodiving. Some islands that offer postcard-pretty beaches with few visitors include Fingernail Island, Coconut Island with its fish farms and the uninhabited Shadow Island in the south. Night market The night market in Duong Dong is mainly for tourists, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth a visit. Cheap souvenir stands vie for space with pop-up restaurants where fresh seafood can be cooked any way you like. Shopping While all the usual beach souvenirs can be easily found around the island, why not take something home that’s truly representative of Phu Quoc? Cooks back home will enjoy a package of famous Phu Quoc black pepper or a bottle of sweet sim wine. Authentic Phu Quoc pearls in a dazzling array of colors and quality are sold directly from the pearl farms along Long Beach and make for a stylish gift. Skip the Phu Quoc fish sauce though, as many airlines don’t allow them on the planes, in case of breakage. If you’ve ever smelled fish sauce up close, you’ll know exactly why!

Villages in Phu Quoc

Some are sizeable and central while others are tiny assembles of boats and houses built on stilts. Nevertheless, they all carry a unique charm and allure that speak to the hearts of adventurous travellers. The towns and villages in Phu Quoc impress one way or another. Starting with two incredible towns around which all island action unfolds, those of Duong Dong and An Thoi, and moving on to the most charming and adorable fishing villages on the island, you will soon realise that Phu Quoc undoubtedly deserves a place on everybody’s must-visit list. Duong Dong Town Duong Dong is a significant settlement on the island and a point of reference for nearly everything you do or everywhere you go around Phu Quoc due to its geographical location. As you will see, almost all directions have Duong Dong as reference! For everybody coming to Phu Quoc, Duong Dong is the town that has it all, from fine dining facilities and lovely natural landscape to luxury resorts offering modern comforts and amenities, and breath-taking views, such as La Veranda, which is located in the heart of the town, having all main attractions within range (less than a 5-minute radius). Duong Dong, though, remains a fishing harbour that more than 50% of the population on Phu Quoc call home. Hosting a wide range of sightseeing attractions, including the Cau Temple, a plethora of eateries where you can sample great seafood, the marvellous Duong Dong night market, and many more, it is a place that rightfully deserves your attention. An Thoi Town Famous for its prison concentration camp (aka Coconut Tree Prison), An Thoi is a booming small town at the southernmost end of the island and the largest fishing harbour with a protected bay that can accommodate container ships and large vessels. It is even a notorious starting point of many snorkelling and scuba diving trips to the archipelago’s southern regions. Also known for its pristine, white sand beaches, those of Bai Khem and Bai Sao, fish sauce factories, dazzling coral reefs, and commercial fishing industry, An Thoi is one of the most developed areas of Phu Quoc Island, with cafes, hotels, restaurants, banking facilities, local markets selling fresh seafood, vegetables, and fruit, and a small hospital. The islands’ naval bases are also located here. To get there, all you need to do is hire a bike, take a taxi or get a boat from Rach Gia, depending on which part of the island you are heading here from. Ham Ninh Village Conveniently tucked at the east coast of Phu Quoc, less than 20km from the centre of Duong Dong Town, Ham Ninh Commune is home to peaceful beaches, the beautiful Bai Vong Port, and the charming village with untouched splendour of Ham Ninh, particularly famous for its nightly fishing tours in pursuit of squid. Ham Ninh is believed to have been founded by fishermen and people from other places that came to the then deserted island to exploit seafood before nobody-knows-how-many-years-exactly. Some references place Ham Ninh as a hamlet of Phu Quoc under Ming Dynasty in the Ham Chau District, and changed hands several times at the beginning of the French colonial period, as it was mastered by Kien Gian, then Rach Gia, and finally Ha Tien. It was not until 1874 that the village eventually became part of the Phu Quoc District. However, its “masters” succeeded one another even still, and moved around a lot, from a community belonging in the Pha Quoc District to Ha Tien District to Chau Doc and then back to Ha Tien District; and, all that within a decade until 1888. Over the years, Ham Ninh became a thriving fishing village and a safe and quiet mooring spot for both boats of people fishing in the wider Duong Dong sea region and ships from the mainland that often drop anchor here and deliver seafood and transport goods. Even when surrounding areas become crammed with people and the influences of modern life, Ham Ninh maintains its rustic appeal and lives in perfect harmony with nature. All that aside, it is now also one of the most abundant sources providing Phu Quoc with fresh crab and cheap seafood year round. In fact, the fish is so plentiful here that you can even see the pier swarmed by little children selling starfish that they caught in the shallow waters surrounding the village! There is much to fall in love with this charming place. With majestic Ham Ninh Mountain and lush green jungles as the backdrop and an idyllic setting during low tide, when the shores turn into vast stretches of sand, or at high tide, when the floods nurture the land and lick the edge of the forest, Ham Ninh can literally steal your heart stone after stone. Distinguished by thatched bamboo leaves houses and facing the immense shimmering sea, it offers sweeping views up to the Nghe Islet and Pirate Island in the south and Ong Doi Headland (the last headland of Phu Quoc) in the south, alongside some of the most romantic sunsets. Le Bat Le Bat is a small fishing village on Phu Quoc Island not much visited by tourists. This picturesque land is a photographer’s dream location due to the exotic landscape around it. Some bikers make short stops at this hamlet on the way to Vung Bau Beach and Cua Can community (coming from Ganh Dau); a definitely scenic route worth exploring. To get here, one needs detailed directions from someone that really knows this place. So, if you are planning a visit, follow the street to Cua Can (from Duong Dong), head north of Ong Lang Beach, cross the bridge after Hoang Yen Resort, and turn left. Le Bat should be welcoming you to its quaint premises! From there, the glistening sea and powdery beach of Vung Bau with the odd-looking rock formations is a short ride away on dirt roads. Rach Vem Home to Rach Vem beach, Rach Vem village is not the place you would choose to lie around on the beach as it not that developed; unless you like to relax and spend time at remote beaches. In this case, do bring food and water with you because apart from the Phong Lan guesthouse, there are not many opportunities to dine or shop here. The locals are friendly, hard-working people that rely on the sea to feed their families. As for their houses, most of them are built on poles and stilts especially the shelters, right out on the sea, offering an interesting sight on their own. Apart from fishing, the inhabitants also breed ducks and chicken which run freely around the huts, along with Phu Quoc Ridgeback dogs, the native (friendly) dog breed of the island (the only one with roots in Vietnam), which are usually found guarding pepper farms and areas where families live. Life has not changed much around here during the past years, which can be fascinating. Tourists, which is a rather rare find in this area, are greeted by a cheerful bunch of children following them around while the locals are willing to get into a nice chat with travellers provided they know Vietnamese or Khmer. Just don’t mention anything about the terror regime of the Khmer Rouge or the Vietnam-Cambodia war as it is a very sensitive topic. For those relaxing, me-times when you walk along Rach Vem’s shore and watch the sea spreading all the way to the coast of Cambodia across the Thailand Gulf, one can’t help but think this must be a slice of heaven and be hesitant to shut their eyelids out of fear of missing out on such raw, authentic beauty. Cua Can A couple of kilometres north of Ong Lang Beach, 10 kilometres south of Ganh Dau, and some 14 kilometres north of Duong Dong town lies the lovely village of Cua Can. Distinguished by pepper plantations, unique ecosystems, and rickety wooden bridges strictly for the use of motorbike and foot traffic, Cua Can village is the getaway to the mighty Cua Can River, which runs deep into the pulsing centre of Phu Quoc, and Cua Can Beach – a great spot for picnicking and swimming in the area. If you visit the region, joining a river tour and kayaking the river are some of the activities definitely worth trying for the serene and calm scenery that will surround you. As for lovers of photography and bird-watching, this is the place to be. Grab your camera and catch the flocks of hornbill flying above you! Also, through the Cua Can River, you will have access to the interior of the magnificent Phu Quoc National Forest. Despite its fairly small size and the less than 4,000 residents, most of whom living in houses built on stilts over the river, Cua Can village has a few places to chill out and enjoy a roadside drink before heading to the more isolated beaches of the North. It is also home to a lovely, yet secluded, sand bar located on the north, which is much favoured by tourists thirsty for adventure and locals alike. Now, if you feel hungry while exploring the roundabouts, there are street-side eateries and a more upscale restaurant that will treat your taste buds with delicious flavours at affordable prices. To get there, take the Cua Can road (one of the island’s main roads) that is easily accessible via Duong Dong up to Ganh Dau and the Vinpearl Resort. From there, drive passed Ong Lang Beach and Vung Bau Beach, and you will reach Duong Dong Town. Cross the river (choose either Hung Vuong Road Bridge or Nguyen Trung Truc Road Bridge) and navigate your way towards Cua Can Road. Ganh Dau Nestled in the north-western coast of the island, about 30 kilometres from Duong Dong town, Ganh Dau village will allow you to take in magnificent sea panoramas that go as far as the Cambodian coastline. Here, you will find some of the most tranquil and peaceful beaches on Pearl Island, including the scenic Ganh Dau and Bai Dai beaches, away from the crowds of the south. If you come here with expectations to find high-end resorts and boutique hotels, you’d better look elsewhere because this small fishing village will only provide you with the basic supplies, such as water, food, petrol and, perhaps, a nice haircut too. But, that is the charm of it, especially if you are after unique experiences infused with the local lifestyle. As you go by people’s homes and walk along the shore, you will see how things were once done throughout the island and how people used to live before some of the areas become more touristy and developed; plenty of fishing boats docked in the harbour, children playing in the streets, and anchovies drying out in the sun before they reach their final destination in a can comprising a key element of the famous Phu Quoc fish sauce. Ganh Dau still holds on to that traditional lifestyle while carefully (and slowly) adopting some modern life features. To savour a tasty lunch, you could either drive a kilometre or so past the village and try Gio Bien’s seafood dishes (a delightful beachside restaurant) or head to the floating fish eatery on the northeastern side of the village. In the latter case, you will need to boat ride to get there, which will offer you additional awe-inspiring views to take with you back home. Hon Thom Located on the second largest island in Phu Quoc and the largest island in the An Thoi archipelago, Hon Thom Island (aka Pineapple Island), the picturesque Hon Thom village with its 2,500 inhabitants is in the heart of a major economic activity taking place on the island. Chances are, we will soon witness a profound transformation in everything about living here, given the plans to develop Hon Thom Island into a tourist destination that will please tourists with vacation homes, resorts, and even a golf course. And, let us not forget the 8-kilometre long Phu Quoc cable car ride that already connects the island of Phu Quoc and Hon Thom, offering a genuinely heart-stopping experience as you hop between islands and soar over coral reefs and a fantastic cobalt sea. Until all that proposed upgrade takes place, you can walk along the two main beaches around Hon Thom village, with the eastern one expected to remain a pleasantly old-fashioned fishermen’s community as it is under the radar of the construction and development plans focusing on the western side at the moment. If you wish, you can also explore the entire island, which is no more than a 30-minute drive (you can rent a motorbike taxi, aka Xe Om) and watch the sun slip behind the horizon from Hon Thom’s main beach. Or, why not, try snorkelling? The waters are rich in superbly beautiful coral reefs and squids. Many tourists prefer cliff climbing instead as it enables them to pay eyes on the incredible natural landscapes specked with sugary beaches, fishermen knitting their nets, coconut rows, crystalline waters, and a variety of rare animals living here, including groupers and turtles. All that combined transfuse a peaceful and soothing, soul-filling sensation. Hungry? Besides the street-side restaurants serving delicious seafood, there are also a few local eateries near the shore preparing traditional Vietnamese snacks and food. To get here, drive south from Duong Dong Town until you reach An Thoi Town after 40-50 minutes or so. Park at the port (parking and entrance fee required, totalling VND 15,000) and catch the local ferry to Hon Thom Island (runs every hour until 17:00). If the weather is good, you will be at Hon Thom Island in about 45 minutes, and the ferry costs VND 30,000 (one-way ticket). To get off the boat and venture onto the island, you will need to be taxied out of the boat, which will cost you an extra VND 10,000. Life in Phu Quoc Island, or Pearl island if you wish, may be hard but the people are friendly, cheerful, and living the magnificence and uniqueness of every moment their own special way. And, as you drive through this green dot of unsurpassable, unspoilt beauty, you can rest your eyes on mind-blowing scenery capable of caressing your inner Self, allowing you to rejuvenate, unwind, and find Zen in the chaos everyday life.

Phu Quoc Health Care

Visitors to Phu Quoc looking to access healthcare while staying at La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc have two main options on the island: public or private. The island’s main general hospital is the Benh Vien Da Khoa Phu Quoc (128 Street 30 Thang 4, tel: +84 77 3846 074). The hospital is equipped to deal with most common health concerns, however, for more complicated issues (eg. requiring surgery or full emergency), it is advised to fly to Ho Chi Minh City or head to the island’s private hospital, Vinmec. As with most hospitals in Vietnam, be prepared to pay cash for your visit, with a large up-front deposit in case of a protracted stay or for expensive procedures (eg. surgery). Expect standards to be lower than in international-standard hospitals. There is also a smaller, more limited public hospital near the town of An Thoi in the island’s south, approximately 200 m from the An Thoi market. The island’s only private hospital is the large, 6-storey Vinmec International Hospital, located within the Phu Quoc Vinpearl Resort to the island’s northwest. Open in June 2015, the 150-bed hospital is part of the Vinmec chain of hospitals with locations in places like Saigon, Nha Trang, Ha Long, etc. Facilities include 3 Operation Rooms, 2 Delivery Rooms, 6 Emergency Beds, 5 Intensive-care Beds and 2 Newborn Intensive-care Beds. In-patients can choose between standard, VIP or Presidential rooms. The hospital offers services in 10 specialties, including: – Emergency Care (24/7) – Outpatient Services – General Surgery including hepatic biliary surgery, gastrointestinal surgery, urology and orthopedics – Obstetrics / Gynecology – Pediatrics – Anesthetics – Gastrointestinal Endoscopy – Diagnostic Imaging Doctors are mostly from Vietnam, although there are a few foreign doctors as well. Many of the doctors speak good English. The feedback from foreign patients has been overwhelmingly positive. Fees start from VND 300,000 (~USD 15) for emergency examinations or examinations with a General Practitioner (not including medication). Expect to pay around USD 100 for a consultation, x-ray and medication. Ambulance service is also available. Certain insurance providers are accepted, otherwise the hospital accepts cash and credit cards. The town of Duong Dong has two major dental clinics and a host of small pharmacies. The emergency number to call for an ambulance in Vietnam is 115.