Vietnam Travel Guide

Vietnam’s history is so redolent and profoundly rich as anywhere in this world. Going back many centuries, way before the American War in Vietnam monopolised the attention of the people of the West, the country was struggling to, well, stay alive and, if possible, thrive. Being the object of desire for the Mongols, the Chams, the Khmers, and the Chinese the Vietnamese did manage to shape a civilisation that rivals in sophistication that of their powerful neighbours in the north, China, from which they were significantly influenced after almost a millennium under their ruling.Then came the French, and Vietnam barely survived the colonialism period. The Americans were the last ones to try to gain lordship over them in the second half of the 20th century. These invaders were too pushed back and away, writing another black page in the history of this country that had to endure a horrible and unprecedentedly brutal war, some of whose atrocities are displayed at the Coconut Prison now turned into a war museum in Phu Quoc. If you walk along the streets throughout Vietnam and pay attention to the names of the roads, you will realise that some names appear repeatedly in every town, city or village across the country. These are the names of national heroes, who had helped lead the nation out of foreign invaders’ imperialistic plans and inspired forthcoming generations of patriots.  In greater detail: The Early Days of Vietnam The Vietnamese are believed to be descendants of nomadic migrants from Indonesia and Mongols from China. Mythology places the first breaths of Vietnam somewhere in 2879 BC when Hung Vuong founded the nation. However, recent archaeological finds suggest that northern Vietnam was inhabited way before that, some 500,000 years ago while the first agricultural activity here dates back to 7000 BC! Southern Vietnam was part of the Funan Kingdom (under Indianised Cambodian reign), called Nokor Phnom by the Khmers, from the 1st to the 6th century. It was then when the first (admittedly, elaborate) irrigation and transportation canals were created in the country, and Oc-Eo in the Mekong Delta became the principal port of Funan. When the Champa Kindom (Hindu) emerged in the late 2nd century AD, the country received influences from the Indian culture and art. During that time, Sanskrit was adopted as a sacred language, but Champa’s desire to rule over the entire coast of Indochina eventually cost them their kingdom and were forced to squeeze themselves between the powerful Khmers to the south and the equally might Vietnamese to the north. It did not take long before the Red River Delta was conquered by the Chinese, in the 2nd century BC, which allowed a great number of settlers, scholars, and officials to head south and “saddle” the Vietnamese with a centralised state system, which did not please local rulers, some of whom raised an army and led a revolt that resulted in the Chinese governor making a quick exit in 40 AD. Three years later, though, the Chinese counterattacked and strangled every rebellion against them from the 3rd to the 6th century, imposing tyranny and forced labour, among others. During their ruling, Vietnam was an important opening to the sea for the Chinese and Indians alike, who both influenced Vietnam in several different ways. The Indians introduced Theravada Buddhism while the Chinese brought Mahayana Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism while also sharing their medical and scientific knowledge. Shortly after, Vietnam started producing its own great scholars, botanists, and doctors and was also beginning to understand the principles of building irrigation channels and dikes to help prevent flooding from the sea. All that combined contributed to the birth of paddy agriculture and farming rice. But, Vietnam felt too small a country to the ever-growing population who had to seek new lands. With the Truong Son Mountains being an inhospitable place, their only way out was to the south. Breaking Free From China When the Tang Dynasty collapsed in the early 10th century, the Vietnamese saw it as an opportunity to revolt and regain their autonomy, which eventually happened after patriot Ngo Quyen pushed back the Chinese army. After a millennium under China’s reign, Vietnam was finally free and, even though the Chinese, the Cham, and the Khmer kept on launching attacks to Vietnam, they were all repelled. At the same time, Vietnam’s expansion to the south was a work in progress, enabling the Vietnamese to gradually take control of the Cham Kingdom. Five centuries after, the Chinese regained control of Vietnam, causing a significant blow in the Vietnamese civilisation after carting off the national archives, among others. An era of slave labour and heavy taxation followed until Le Loi, a wealthy philanthropist, rallied the Vietnamese against the Chinese and declared himself Emperor after the Chinese were defeated. Slowly, but steadily, he turned Vietnam into a mighty country, even for a little while. The Portuguese’s Impact on Vietnam In 1516, the first Portuguese sailors and a party of Dominican missionaries stepped foot at Danang. In the decades to follow, the Vietnam-Portugal trade thrived while the Catholic Church had a profound impact on Vietnam, much greater than on any other Asian country besides the Philippines, which remained a Spanish colony for nearly four centuries. Between the 17th and 18th century, though, Vietnam found itself in the middle of a rivalry between the rulers of the North, the Trinh Lords, who bore Dutch armaments, and the lords of the South, the Nguyen Lords, who were supported by the Portuguese and their powerful weaponry; each of them wanting to subdue one another. The latter clan won and further expanded to the south, absorbing regions of the Mekong Delta along their way. The Fall of the Nguyen Family A rebellion that took place in 1765 led by the Tay Son Rebels (who were controlled by the Nguyen brothers) allowed the Nguyen family to control the entire central Vietnam in less than 10 years. They also defeated the Chinese army in 1789; a victory that holds a special place in the Vietnamese history. By 1802, the country was united again for the first time in 200 years thanks to the Nguyen Lords, and Hue was the new capital. The Clan’s expansionistic policies continued, seizing areas of Lao territory, pushing into Cambodia, and clashing with Thailand to grab a share of the divided Khmer empire. The countdown began when the French arrived in Vietnam in 1874 with military activity. They attacked Danang harbour, seized Saigon, and got an agreement that provided them with three eastern provinces of Cochinchina, which put an end to the independent state of Vietnam. However, under the French colonialism, Vietnam saw impressive public works being carried out, such as the construction of the Hanoi-Saigon railway, which was paid from the peasants who were enforced utterly heavy taxes. As expected, this devastated the economy and raised frustration (to say the least) among the Vietnamese. Between 1917 and 1944, it is said that more than 12,000 Vietnamese workers at a single rubber plantation died of malnutrition and disease (out of the 45,000 in total). Of course, all those hardships kept the fire for independence burning inside people’s hearts. And, it turned out that the communists were, in fact, the most successful anti-colonialists as they managed to channel people’s demands for more upright land distributions. The Break Out of WWII Vietnam escaped the ravages of Japanese occupation (Japanese troops had been sent to Vietnam when France fell to Nazi Germany) when the latter decided to leave the French administration to help their country with its daily running, which allowed the Vietnamese to go back to their normal, everyday rhythms. Unfortunately, 10 million people of North Vietnam starved to death due to famine after dikes broke causing massive floods and destroying crops, and the requisition of rice paddies by the Japanese just before WWII ended. During this period, the USA-assisted Viet Minh and Ho Chi Minh saw the arguments between the Japanese and the French as a window to strike, which they did. After a series of events, the Japanese occupation forces in Vietnam were disarmed, and Ho Chi Minh declared its independence; but the country was in a chaotic state, being headless. The French Return In the meantime, the French reappeared on the scene to reclaim their so-called inheritance and were eventually allowed to regain control of Vietnam. That was, in fact, was a strategic move on behalf of the Vietnamese, who feared the ruling of the Chinese and allowed the French to maintain control for a specified amount of time. In return, they asked Vietnam to be recognised as a free state within the French Union. All went relatively well until the French made the mistake to attack Haiphong and kill hundreds of civilians, which sparked the France-Vietnam war. Despite the massive aid they received from the Americans, the French did not manage to take administrative control of Vietnam and eventually admitted defeat, after losing tens of thousands of soldiers. The conflict ended with the Geneva Conference, and the country made preparations for nationwide elections that were, sadly, never held. The USA In 1950, USA troops marched into Vietnam, at first, serving as advisers, and then as the main military force as a means to help the French combat the expansion of communism. They remained there for 25 years until a random incident fired up a Vietnam-USA war that started with the destruction of Vietnamese rail bridges and the destruction of every single road in the country and the majority of the villages in North Vietnam. In an attempt to get rid of Vietnamese communist sanctuaries across the border, the American started secretly bombarding Cambodia in 1969 while pushing the North Vietnamese deeper into Cambodian territory. The brutality of the war, though, that was always finding a reason (and way) to feed itself on behalf of the Americans caused great anti-war protests in the USA. Eventually, the USA and Vietnam (south and north) signed the Paris Peace Accords in 1973, providing a cease-fire, leaving behind millions of dead soldiers and civilians and hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese that had decided to flee their country. The Era of Changes When the war ended the communist party renamed Saigon as Ho Chi Ming City and the country finally reunified in 1976. However, communism had to be overruled and replaced by socialism which led to the creation of prison camps for those that still had ties to the previous regime, who were incarcerated in horrendous conditions. Meanwhile, the relations with China were going from bad to worse, an anti-capitalistic campaign that was launched in 1978 led to seizing businesses and private property of Ethnic-Chinese, the Khmer Rouge kept on attacking the Vietnamese borders forcing the latter to respond, and, in the end, Vietnam entered into war mode with Cambodia, which was temporarily seized but later liberated again after the Chinese’s intervention. For a short while, the Vietnamese Communist Party saw a beam of light when President Mikhael Gorbachev came to power in the Soviet Union in 1985 wanting restructuring and openness. But, the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 forced the Party to reform to survive. Vietnam Today The relations between Vietnam and the USA have improved significantly in the past few years. The USA-imposed economic embargo was lifted in 1994, after more than 30 years while full diplomatic relations between the two countries have now been restored. Since that day, a few US Presidents have visited northern Vietnam, and the country was welcomed into the WTO (World Trade Organization) in 2006. The relations with China have also improved over the course of time despite the fact that many still believe that China never ceased to consider Vietnam a deserting traitor. Nevertheless, the righteous and forward-thinkers insist that collaboration towards the future is much more vital than remembering the past and arguing about what happened then. Northern Vietnam is now seen as a gate to the South China Sea, and Beijing does not miss an opportunity to show how appreciative they are of Vietnam’s strategic geographical location as it enables a fast route from the Sichuan and Yunnan to the Sea. That aside, Vietnam is also an ASEAN member, an organisation that was originally founded to serve as a defensive wall against communism, and all that have contributed to Vietnam’s economic prosperity. The economy is growing at over 8% annually, and tourism is on the rise.

Phu Quoc International Airport is the hub connecting the island with Vietnamese mainland and several international destinations such as Guangzhou, Chengdu, Kunming, Hangzhou, Wuxi, Shanghai (China), Seoul, Siem Reap, Bangkok, and Singapore. Best of all, because Phu Quoc is classified as a Special Economic Zone, visitors of all nationalities flying in/ out of Phu Quoc only (and not visiting the Vietnamese mainland) are granted a visa exemption to stay up to 30 days. Please check with the Vietnamese embassy or consulate in your country for additional requirements including having a passport valid for at least 6 months beyond your stay and a round-trip ticket to/ from Phu Quoc. If traveling from Cambodia, Ha Tien is easily accessible from the seaside resort towns of Kep (25 km) and Kampot (66 km). Most fast and slow ferries will take you to Bai Vong Port on Phu Quoc, close to Long Beach. Again, groups with aged people and children should not look for this route to avoid seasickness and any misadventures. From there to the main town of Duong Dong, there are multiple transportation options, including motorcycle taxis (each able to carry one passenger with minimal luggage), taxis and shared mini-buses.

Some are sizeable and central while others are tiny assembles of boats and houses built on stilts. Nevertheless, they all carry a unique charm and allure that speak to the hearts of adventurous travellers. The towns and villages in Phu Quoc impress one way or another. Starting with two incredible towns around which all island action unfolds, those of Duong Dong and An Thoi, and moving on to the most charming and adorable fishing villages on the island, you will soon realise that Phu Quoc undoubtedly deserves a place on everybody’s must-visit list. Duong Dong Town Duong Dong is a significant settlement on the island and a point of reference for nearly everything you do or everywhere you go around Phu Quoc due to its geographical location. As you will see, almost all directions have Duong Dong as reference! For everybody coming to Phu Quoc, Duong Dong is the town that has it all, from fine dining facilities and lovely natural landscape to luxury resorts offering modern comforts and amenities, and breath-taking views, such as La Veranda, which is located in the heart of the town, having all main attractions within range (less than a 5-minute radius). Duong Dong, though, remains a fishing harbour that more than 50% of the population on Phu Quoc call home. Hosting a wide range of sightseeing attractions, including the Cau Temple, a plethora of eateries where you can sample great seafood, the marvellous Duong Dong night market, and many more, it is a place that rightfully deserves your attention. An Thoi Town Famous for its prison concentration camp (aka Coconut Tree Prison), An Thoi is a booming small town at the southernmost end of the island and the largest fishing harbour with a protected bay that can accommodate container ships and large vessels. It is even a notorious starting point of many snorkelling and scuba diving trips to the archipelago’s southern regions. Also known for its pristine, white sand beaches, those of Bai Khem and Bai Sao, fish sauce factories, dazzling coral reefs, and commercial fishing industry, An Thoi is one of the most developed areas of Phu Quoc Island, with cafes, hotels, restaurants, banking facilities, local markets selling fresh seafood, vegetables, and fruit, and a small hospital. The islands’ naval bases are also located here. To get there, all you need to do is hire a bike, take a taxi or get a boat from Rach Gia, depending on which part of the island you are heading here from. Ham Ninh Village Conveniently tucked at the east coast of Phu Quoc, less than 20km from the centre of Duong Dong Town, Ham Ninh Commune is home to peaceful beaches, the beautiful Bai Vong Port, and the charming village with untouched splendour of Ham Ninh, particularly famous for its nightly fishing tours in pursuit of squid. Ham Ninh is believed to have been founded by fishermen and people from other places that came to the then deserted island to exploit seafood before nobody-knows-how-many-years-exactly. Some references place Ham Ninh as a hamlet of Phu Quoc under Ming Dynasty in the Ham Chau District, and changed hands several times at the beginning of the French colonial period, as it was mastered by Kien Gian, then Rach Gia, and finally Ha Tien. It was not until 1874 that the village eventually became part of the Phu Quoc District. However, its “masters” succeeded one another even still, and moved around a lot, from a community belonging in the Pha Quoc District to Ha Tien District to Chau Doc and then back to Ha Tien District; and, all that within a decade until 1888. Over the years, Ham Ninh became a thriving fishing village and a safe and quiet mooring spot for both boats of people fishing in the wider Duong Dong sea region and ships from the mainland that often drop anchor here and deliver seafood and transport goods. Even when surrounding areas become crammed with people and the influences of modern life, Ham Ninh maintains its rustic appeal and lives in perfect harmony with nature. All that aside, it is now also one of the most abundant sources providing Phu Quoc with fresh crab and cheap seafood year round. In fact, the fish is so plentiful here that you can even see the pier swarmed by little children selling starfish that they caught in the shallow waters surrounding the village! There is much to fall in love with this charming place. With majestic Ham Ninh Mountain and lush green jungles as the backdrop and an idyllic setting during low tide, when the shores turn into vast stretches of sand, or at high tide, when the floods nurture the land and lick the edge of the forest, Ham Ninh can literally steal your heart stone after stone. Distinguished by thatched bamboo leaves houses and facing the immense shimmering sea, it offers sweeping views up to the Nghe Islet and Pirate Island in the south and Ong Doi Headland (the last headland of Phu Quoc) in the south, alongside some of the most romantic sunsets. Le Bat Le Bat is a small fishing village on Phu Quoc Island not much visited by tourists. This picturesque land is a photographer’s dream location due to the exotic landscape around it. Some bikers make short stops at this hamlet on the way to Vung Bau Beach and Cua Can community (coming from Ganh Dau); a definitely scenic route worth exploring. To get here, one needs detailed directions from someone that really knows this place. So, if you are planning a visit, follow the street to Cua Can (from Duong Dong), head north of Ong Lang Beach, cross the bridge after Hoang Yen Resort, and turn left. Le Bat should be welcoming you to its quaint premises! From there, the glistening sea and powdery beach of Vung Bau with the odd-looking rock formations is a short ride away on dirt roads. Rach Vem Home to Rach Vem beach, Rach Vem village is not the place you would choose to lie around on the beach as it not that developed; unless you like to relax and spend time at remote beaches. In this case, do bring food and water with you because apart from the Phong Lan guesthouse, there are not many opportunities to dine or shop here. The locals are friendly, hard-working people that rely on the sea to feed their families. As for their houses, most of them are built on poles and stilts especially the shelters, right out on the sea, offering an interesting sight on their own. Apart from fishing, the inhabitants also breed ducks and chicken which run freely around the huts, along with Phu Quoc Ridgeback dogs, the native (friendly) dog breed of the island (the only one with roots in Vietnam), which are usually found guarding pepper farms and areas where families live. Life has not changed much around here during the past years, which can be fascinating. Tourists, which is a rather rare find in this area, are greeted by a cheerful bunch of children following them around while the locals are willing to get into a nice chat with travellers provided they know Vietnamese or Khmer. Just don’t mention anything about the terror regime of the Khmer Rouge or the Vietnam-Cambodia war as it is a very sensitive topic. For those relaxing, me-times when you walk along Rach Vem’s shore and watch the sea spreading all the way to the coast of Cambodia across the Thailand Gulf, one can’t help but think this must be a slice of heaven and be hesitant to shut their eyelids out of fear of missing out on such raw, authentic beauty. Cua Can A couple of kilometres north of Ong Lang Beach, 10 kilometres south of Ganh Dau, and some 14 kilometres north of Duong Dong town lies the lovely village of Cua Can. Distinguished by pepper plantations, unique ecosystems, and rickety wooden bridges strictly for the use of motorbike and foot traffic, Cua Can village is the getaway to the mighty Cua Can River, which runs deep into the pulsing centre of Phu Quoc, and Cua Can Beach – a great spot for picnicking and swimming in the area. If you visit the region, joining a river tour and kayaking the river are some of the activities definitely worth trying for the serene and calm scenery that will surround you. As for lovers of photography and bird-watching, this is the place to be. Grab your camera and catch the flocks of hornbill flying above you! Also, through the Cua Can River, you will have access to the interior of the magnificent Phu Quoc National Forest. Despite its fairly small size and the less than 4,000 residents, most of whom living in houses built on stilts over the river, Cua Can village has a few places to chill out and enjoy a roadside drink before heading to the more isolated beaches of the North. It is also home to a lovely, yet secluded, sand bar located on the north, which is much favoured by tourists thirsty for adventure and locals alike. Now, if you feel hungry while exploring the roundabouts, there are street-side eateries and a more upscale restaurant that will treat your taste buds with delicious flavours at affordable prices. To get there, take the Cua Can road (one of the island’s main roads) that is easily accessible via Duong Dong up to Ganh Dau and the Vinpearl Resort. From there, drive passed Ong Lang Beach and Vung Bau Beach, and you will reach Duong Dong Town. Cross the river (choose either Hung Vuong Road Bridge or Nguyen Trung Truc Road Bridge) and navigate your way towards Cua Can Road. Ganh Dau Nestled in the north-western coast of the island, about 30 kilometres from Duong Dong town, Ganh Dau village will allow you to take in magnificent sea panoramas that go as far as the Cambodian coastline. Here, you will find some of the most tranquil and peaceful beaches on Pearl Island, including the scenic Ganh Dau and Bai Dai beaches, away from the crowds of the south. If you come here with expectations to find high-end resorts and boutique hotels, you’d better look elsewhere because this small fishing village will only provide you with the basic supplies, such as water, food, petrol and, perhaps, a nice haircut too. But, that is the charm of it, especially if you are after unique experiences infused with the local lifestyle. As you go by people’s homes and walk along the shore, you will see how things were once done throughout the island and how people used to live before some of the areas become more touristy and developed; plenty of fishing boats docked in the harbour, children playing in the streets, and anchovies drying out in the sun before they reach their final destination in a can comprising a key element of the famous Phu Quoc fish sauce. Ganh Dau still holds on to that traditional lifestyle while carefully (and slowly) adopting some modern life features. To savour a tasty lunch, you could either drive a kilometre or so past the village and try Gio Bien’s seafood dishes (a delightful beachside restaurant) or head to the floating fish eatery on the northeastern side of the village. In the latter case, you will need to boat ride to get there, which will offer you additional awe-inspiring views to take with you back home. Hon Thom Located on the second largest island in Phu Quoc and the largest island in the An Thoi archipelago, Hon Thom Island (aka Pineapple Island), the picturesque Hon Thom village with its 2,500 inhabitants is in the heart of a major economic activity taking place on the island. Chances are, we will soon witness a profound transformation in everything about living here, given the plans to develop Hon Thom Island into a tourist destination that will please tourists with vacation homes, resorts, and even a golf course. And, let us not forget the 8-kilometre long Phu Quoc cable car ride that already connects the island of Phu Quoc and Hon Thom, offering a genuinely heart-stopping experience as you hop between islands and soar over coral reefs and a fantastic cobalt sea. Until all that proposed upgrade takes place, you can walk along the two main beaches around Hon Thom village, with the eastern one expected to remain a pleasantly old-fashioned fishermen’s community as it is under the radar of the construction and development plans focusing on the western side at the moment. If you wish, you can also explore the entire island, which is no more than a 30-minute drive (you can rent a motorbike taxi, aka Xe Om) and watch the sun slip behind the horizon from Hon Thom’s main beach. Or, why not, try snorkelling? The waters are rich in superbly beautiful coral reefs and squids. Many tourists prefer cliff climbing instead as it enables them to pay eyes on the incredible natural landscapes specked with sugary beaches, fishermen knitting their nets, coconut rows, crystalline waters, and a variety of rare animals living here, including groupers and turtles. All that combined transfuse a peaceful and soothing, soul-filling sensation. Hungry? Besides the street-side restaurants serving delicious seafood, there are also a few local eateries near the shore preparing traditional Vietnamese snacks and food. To get here, drive south from Duong Dong Town until you reach An Thoi Town after 40-50 minutes or so. Park at the port (parking and entrance fee required, totalling VND 15,000) and catch the local ferry to Hon Thom Island (runs every hour until 17:00). If the weather is good, you will be at Hon Thom Island in about 45 minutes, and the ferry costs VND 30,000 (one-way ticket). To get off the boat and venture onto the island, you will need to be taxied out of the boat, which will cost you an extra VND 10,000. Life in Phu Quoc Island, or Pearl island if you wish, may be hard but the people are friendly, cheerful, and living the magnificence and uniqueness of every moment their own special way. And, as you drive through this green dot of unsurpassable, unspoilt beauty, you can rest your eyes on mind-blowing scenery capable of caressing your inner Self, allowing you to rejuvenate, unwind, and find Zen in the chaos everyday life.